Scandi, Skagit, Full Spey: How to Line Your Spey Rod

Bridge makes some seriously great fly lines. I fish the Tributary quite a bit.

Besides choosing sink tips, this is easily the most debated and researched question when setting up your first spey rod. For the uninitiated, the topic is complex and confusing. For those with experience, there’s a nuance that goes far beyond the effort most fly anglers put into selecting a single-hand line off the shelf.

I’ll let you in on a system I learned that takes a lot of the guesswork out of properly lining your first spey rod.


Why the Line Matters So Much

Just like a fly line for a single-hand rod, your spey line is the delivery system that casts your fly to the fish. There are even videos of master casters throwing fly lines overhead—without a rod—just to prove how much work the line itself does.

Of course, rods are still essential. But it goes to show that your line is the most important decision you’ll make when dialing in a two-handed setup.

Fly lines matter even more for spey rods, because two-handed casting is often about turning over big flies and heavy sink tips. One line probably can’t do it all. Heavy heads will slap the water and fail at delicate presentations, while long, light tapers won’t move a dumbbell-eyed intruder paired with 15 feet of T-14. Your line choice depends entirely on your goal.


The Two-Handed System

There are three main classifications of spey lines: Scandi, Skagit, and Full Spey.

Spey lines are measured in grain weight rather than the standard AFTMA line weights. This is because spey rods are designed to cast a wide range of line weights and tapers. Grain weight tells you much more than just matching “7 weight rod = 7 weight line.”

Some lines are designed to cast leaders up to 20 feet long, while others require a sink tip to perform properly. Once you know the line name, head length, and grain weight, you’ll know exactly how that line is intended to fish.


Scandi: For Lighter Payloads

Scandi (short for Scandinavian) lines feature relatively short front tapers and are designed for touch-and-go casting—where the line briefly kisses the water as the rod loads.

Casting Scandi is graceful and efficient, with tight loops and minimal effort. It’s satisfying to “cast off the tip” of the rod.

  • Best for: Summer and fall fishing, smaller flies like hairwings, skaters, and lightly weighted leeches.
  • Limitations: Struggles with heavy sink tips and large flies.

Rule of thumb for choosing Scandi:

  • Grain weight ≈ rod weight × 60 (± 50 grains).
  • Head length ≈ rod length × 2.5 (± a couple feet).
  • Tips: Up to 85 grains; never longer than your rod.

Skagit: For the Heaviest Tips and Flies

If Scandi lines are family sedans, Skagit lines are heavy-duty pickup trucks. They’re short, fat, and built to throw heavy sink tips and weighted flies.

Skagit heads always need a tip—floating or sinking—to taper energy into your leader. Without one, your cast will hinge and collapse.

  • Best for: Winter fishing, intruders, and heavy sink tips.
  • Casting style: Sustained anchor (letting the line fully touch down before the forward stroke).

Rule of thumb for choosing Skagit:

  • Grain weight ≈ rod weight × 70 (± 50 grains).
  • Head length ≈ rod length × 1.8 (± a couple feet).
  • Tips: Usually 125–150 grains, never longer than your rod.

I don’t personally love the clunky feel of Skagit casting, but when I need to punch a heavy fly and T-14 into the wind, it’s the only tool for the job.


Full Spey: For the Traditionalist

Classic mid- and long-belly spey lines are elegant, efficient, and rewarding—if you have the casting chops. These lines require excellent timing but reward you with smooth loops, delicate turnover, and long drifts without stripping in running line.

  • Best for: Big rivers, traditional flies, and anglers who love the rhythm of classic spey.
  • Limitations: Steep learning curve; not great for heavy sink tips.

Rule of thumb for choosing Full Spey:

  • Line length ≈ rod length × 4 (or longer).
  • Grain weight: About 100 grains below the top of your rod’s grain window.
  • Leaders: Use polyleaders, versileaders, or long tapered mono (15–20 ft). Avoid heavy sink tips.

For many anglers, the Bridge Tributary (a short-belly style line) is the perfect stepping stone into this world.


Choosing the Right Line for You

Most anglers eventually own multiple lines—because conditions, flies, and rivers change.

  • Tight quarters: Short Scandi or Skagit heads.
  • Wide open runs: Longer heads for efficient coverage.
  • Example: On the Deschutes, I’ll use a Bridge Tributary for skating flies in the morning, then swap to a Scandi with light sink tips to punch through afternoon winds.

The best way to decide? Try them. Attend a spey clinic, demo lines from your fly shop, or trade with other anglers. Forums like speypages.com are also great for buying and selling used lines.

Ultimately, it’s about your style, your water, and your goals. Personally, I love the feel of touch-and-go casting with my Bridge Tributary. Once I master it, I’ll move on to longer lines.

Whatever you choose—don’t leave those lines in your shopping cart. Get out on the water and cast them.

—T

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