Kate and I booked a site at Paradise Campground the day after we purchased our 2025 Keystone Bullet, so we’ve been looking forward to this trip for a few months. We’ve already taken our rig to the Metolius — twice — but this was our first time RVing out on the McKenzie. The next time we camp here will be for a full week in July when I take my wooden drift boat-building class. Did I mention I signed up to learn how to build boats? I digress.
Paradise Campground Sits on the Banks of the McKenzie River
Many of the sites are situated right along the river, but all of them are graced by the roaring rapids that make the Mac a household name. As far as fishing goes, there is plenty to go around if you know where to look.
I spent my time fishing the camp water and the two miles above and below camp. Access is challenging and best found off the McKenzie River Trail, which runs directly through the campground, though some choice glides can be found at the downstream end of camp. Some of the best water I found was closer to the ranger station. Again, a quick detour off the trail led me to terrific pocket water full of eager native rainbows and cutthroats.
I fished my new fiberglass rod and Hardy Ultralight reel with a Rosenhopper and an olive-thread Frenchie at the end of my tippet. However, I probably could’ve done without the nymph since the fish were so surface-oriented. This setup got the job done, and the only time I swapped out the Frenchie was to fish an evening caddis emergence with a sparsely tied deer hair wet fly. My streamer rod rocked a white and olive sparkle minnow, but it didn’t see much action. I go to the Mac to fish dry flies, after all…
The River Itself
The McKenzie is a notoriously difficult river to wade. Dense forest comes right up to the water, making backcasting a distant wish. The river bottom is cobbled with stones ranging from small to massive, and you will trip over all of them. The rocks are also moss-covered and slick. The clear water makes depth perception challenging, and you will quickly find yourself wading deeper than expected. Oh, and the water is wicked cold.
Most of the time I wader up, but I ALWAYS wear my studded wading boots. Chacos are not appropriate footwear for the McKenzie and will most certainly result in premature death. Wade with caution.
The Mac is best fished from a boat manned by a skilled oarsman. Dry-droppering from the boat is about as good as it gets on this river. A well-placed Chubby or X-Caddis under overhanging branches inevitably results in explosive takes and tight lines. The float itself is a blast as the oarsman stays focused, dodging minefields of boulders and cascading down quick chutes. Even if you don’t fish, it’s worth getting out on this river for a day of rafting.
The McKenzie is also home to a diverse range of fish species. The upper reaches hold native cutthroat, rainbows, and even a few bull trout (though I have yet to see one in the flesh). The middle and lower sections contain both native and stocked rainbows. Below Leaburg Dam, you’ll find the big boys — Chinook and steelhead.
I haven’t fished the steelhead run here personally, but it is supposedly quite productive between the dam and the confluence with the Willamette River. Fly water is harder to come by in the lower section, but it’s there. Todd Hirano has a great page about fishing for these fantastic beasts on a dry line, and the Mac is his home water. Give his site a read.
How to Spend Your Time in Paradise
Besides the fishing, the cooking, and the fireside lounging, I highly recommend strapping on your finest boots — or Chacos — and taking a hike down the McKenzie River Trail. A walk down the trail could lead you to famous spots like Tamolitch Blue Pool, Sahalie and Koosah Falls, or Clear Lake.
It’s also worth taking a detour down the Aufderheide Scenic Byway and hitting the Proxy Falls hike or Dee Wright Observatory, which is about a 30–40 minute drive down the narrow, winding two-lane highway. Our favorite pastime, however, is the hot springs.
Paradise Campground is situated about two or three miles downstream from Belknap Hot Springs. If you stay close to the springs, you should consider paying the 12 bucks to soak for an hour and walk around the gardens. You won’t regret it.
But if you plan on soaking frequently, it makes sense to stay onsite at Belknap or at their sister property, Camp Yale. Tent and RV sites range from $40–50 per night, while lodge rooms and cabins start at $140 per night. Amenities include a guest-only soaking pool, RV hookups and a dump station, laundry facilities, a small café, and beautiful gardens throughout the property. There’s even a secret garden across the footbridge if you take the time to explore the back reaches of the property.
Riverside Nights on the McKenzie
The Mac really is one of my favorite destinations in all of Oregon, and not just because of its proximity to home. The scenery is gorgeous, the fishing is great, the rafting is an absolute blast, and there are countless non-fishing activities along the entirety of the river corridor.
I just hope the area continues to stay beautiful as water levels drop due to low average snowpack and increasingly frequent drought years. Even when the McKenzie is swept by wildfire, its resilience continues to impress, and the river endures so long as the flowing water gives it a chance to recover each time.
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